POOL TROUBLESHOOTING

A green pool is almost always caused by algae growth. Algae spores are everywhere — in the air, on leaves, even in rain. When your pool's sanitizer (chlorine) drops too low, algae multiplies rapidly. In South Louisiana, where temperatures regularly hit 90°F+ and humidity stays above 80%, algae can take over a pool in as little as 24-48 hours.

• Low chlorine levels — the #1 cause. If your free chlorine drops below 1 ppm, algae has an open invitation.
• Poor circulation — dead spots in your pool where water doesn't move become algae breeding grounds.
• Clogged or dirty filter — a filter that can't do its job means particles and algae stay in the water.
• Rain and storms — heavy rain dilutes chlorine and introduces phosphates that feed algae.
• Skipped weekly service — even one missed week in Louisiana's climate can trigger a bloom.

Fixing a green pool requires what's called 'shocking' — adding a large dose of chlorine to kill the algae. But there's more to it than just dumping chlorine in the water. Here's the professional process we follow at Aquarius:

• Test the water first — check pH, chlorine, alkalinity, and CYA levels. pH must be lowered to 7.2 before shocking for maximum chlorine effectiveness.
• Brush all surfaces — walls, floor, steps, and behind ladders. This breaks up algae colonies so chlorine can reach them.
• Triple or quadruple shock — for a visibly green pool, you need 3-4x the normal shock dose. We use calcium hypochlorite for the strongest kill.
• Run the pump 24/7 — continuous circulation is critical. The filter needs to process all the water multiple times.
• Backwash the filter repeatedly — as dead algae gets trapped, the filter pressure rises. Backwash every few hours until the water clears.
• Vacuum to waste — once algae settles to the bottom, vacuum it out directly (not through the filter) to remove it completely.

Prevention is always easier (and cheaper) than recovery. The key is maintaining consistent chlorine levels and water circulation. Here's what we recommend for every pool in the Lafayette area:

• Maintain free chlorine between 2-4 ppm at all times — test at least twice a week in summer.
• Run your pump 8-12 hours per day minimum — more in peak summer heat.
• Clean your filter monthly and replace cartridges annually.
• Keep your CYA (stabilizer) between 30-50 ppm — too high and chlorine becomes ineffective.
• Schedule weekly professional service — we catch problems before they become green pool emergencies.

If your pump is completely dead — no humming, no noise, nothing — the issue is usually electrical. Start with the basics before assuming the worst.

• Check the breaker — pool pumps run on a dedicated circuit. Look at your electrical panel for a tripped breaker and reset it.
• Check the timer — if your pump runs on a timer or automation system, make sure it's programmed correctly and hasn't lost power.
• Inspect the GFCI outlet — many pool pumps are connected to GFCI-protected outlets that can trip independently of the main breaker.
• Look for a reset button — some pumps have a thermal overload protector that trips if the motor overheats. Wait 30 minutes and press the reset button.

A humming pump means it's getting power but the motor can't spin. This is often a capacitor issue or a seized motor.

• Bad start capacitor — the capacitor gives the motor the initial 'kick' to start spinning. When it fails, the motor hums but can't turn over. This is a common, affordable repair.
• Seized motor bearings — if the pump hasn't run in a while, the bearings can seize. Try spinning the motor shaft manually (with power OFF). If it's stuck, the bearings need replacement.
• Debris in the impeller — sometimes a rock, twig, or debris gets lodged in the impeller and prevents it from spinning. Turn off power, open the pump housing, and check.

If the pump is running but water isn't moving, you likely have an air leak or a clogged line. This is the most common pump complaint we hear from Lafayette pool owners.

• Check the skimmer and pump baskets — clogged baskets are the #1 cause of low flow. Clean them out.
• Check the water level — if the water is below the skimmer opening, the pump sucks air instead of water.
• Air leak in the suction line — look for bubbles in the pump strainer basket. Air leaks at the pump lid O-ring, unions, or valves will kill suction.
• Clogged impeller — even with clean baskets, small debris can get past and clog the impeller. This requires opening the pump.

Pool pumps should produce a steady, low hum. Grinding, screeching, or rattling noises indicate a mechanical problem that will get worse if ignored.

• Grinding or screeching — worn motor bearings. The pump will eventually seize if not repaired. Bearing replacement is much cheaper than a new motor.
• Rattling or vibrating — loose mounting bolts, a cracked pump housing, or debris in the impeller. Check all connections and tighten as needed.
• Cavitation (gurgling/sucking sound) — the pump is starving for water. Check for blockages, low water level, or undersized plumbing.

If your pump fills with water when you start it but then loses prime (the basket empties and fills with air), you have an air leak on the suction side of the system.

• Replace the pump lid O-ring — this is the most common cause. O-rings dry out and crack over time, especially in Louisiana's heat.
• Check all suction-side valves and unions — tighten connections and replace any cracked fittings.
• Inspect the drain plugs — make sure all drain plugs are tight and have proper O-rings.
• Check for underground pipe leaks — if all above-ground connections are tight, you may have a crack in a buried suction pipe. This requires professional leak detection.

Cloudy pool water is a symptom, not a diagnosis. To fix it, you need to identify which of these four causes is at play — and sometimes it's more than one.

• Poor filtration — your filter isn't removing particles fast enough. This is the most common cause, especially if you're not running your pump long enough.
• Unbalanced water chemistry — high pH (above 7.8), high alkalinity, or high calcium hardness all cause cloudiness. High pH is the #1 chemical cause.
• Low chlorine / early algae — before a pool turns green, it turns cloudy. If your free chlorine is below 1 ppm, microscopic algae is likely starting to grow.
• Environmental debris — pollen, dust, sunscreen, body oils, and fertilizer runoff all contribute to cloudiness, especially after storms or pool parties.

Follow this process in order. Most cloudy pools clear up within 24-48 hours when you address the root cause systematically.

• Step 1: Test your water — check pH, free chlorine, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and CYA. This tells you exactly what's off.
• Step 2: Balance pH first — bring it to 7.2-7.4. If pH is high, add muriatic acid. Everything else works better when pH is right.
• Step 3: Shock the pool — add 2x the normal shock dose to kill any microscopic algae and oxidize organic contaminants.
• Step 4: Run the pump 24/7 — continuous filtration is essential. Don't turn it off until the water is clear.
• Step 5: Clean or backwash the filter — a dirty filter can't clear cloudy water. Clean it at the start and again 12 hours later.
• Step 6: Add clarifier (optional) — pool clarifier clumps tiny particles together so your filter can catch them. Use sparingly — too much makes it worse.

Sometimes cloudy water indicates an issue that simple chemistry adjustments won't fix. Watch for these warning signs:

• Water clears then goes cloudy again within days — your CYA (stabilizer) may be too high, making chlorine ineffective. The only fix is a partial drain and refill.
• Chlorine disappears overnight — chlorine demand is too high, often from a hidden algae bloom or high organic load. You may need multiple shock treatments.
• Filter pressure stays high after cleaning — your filter media (sand, cartridge, or DE grids) may be worn out and need replacement.
• Cloudy water with a strong chlorine smell — paradoxically, a strong chlorine smell means too many chloramines (combined chlorine) and not enough free chlorine. Shock heavily.

The best way to deal with cloudy water is to never let it happen. Here's the maintenance routine that keeps our 150+ weekly customers' pools crystal clear:

• Run your pump 8-12 hours daily — more in summer, less in winter. Water needs to turn over at least once per day.
• Test and adjust chemistry weekly — pH, chlorine, and alkalinity are the big three. Keep them in range and cloudiness rarely occurs.
• Clean your filter on schedule — cartridge filters every 2-4 weeks, sand filters backwash monthly, DE filters twice per season.
• Skim and brush weekly — removing debris before it breaks down reduces the load on your chemicals and filter.
• Shower before swimming — sunscreen, hair products, and body oils are major contributors to cloudy water after pool parties.

In South Louisiana's summer heat (90°F+ with high humidity), pools typically lose 1/8 to 1/4 inch of water per day to evaporation. Wind, direct sun exposure, and water features like fountains or waterfalls increase this. But if you're losing more than 1/4 inch per day consistently, or your autofill is running constantly, a leak is likely.

• 1/8 to 1/4 inch per day — normal evaporation in Louisiana summer conditions.
• More than 1/4 inch per day — likely a leak, especially if loss continues overnight when evaporation slows.
• Water features running — fountains, waterfalls, and spillovers increase evaporation significantly. Turn them off to get an accurate reading.
• Autofill masking the problem — if your autofill runs constantly, you may have a leak you haven't noticed because the water level stays steady.

The bucket test is the simplest way to determine if you have a leak or just evaporation. It compares your pool's water loss to a control sample exposed to the same conditions. Here's how to do it:

• Fill a 5-gallon bucket with pool water and place it on your pool step (submerged about 5 inches).
• Mark the water level inside the bucket AND the pool water level on the outside of the bucket with tape or a marker.
• Wait 24 hours — don't swim, and turn off autofill and water features.
• Compare the two marks: if the pool dropped more than the bucket, you have a leak. If they dropped equally, it's evaporation.
• Run the test twice — once with the pump running, once with it off. If you lose more water with the pump on, the leak is in the plumbing (pressure side). If you lose more with it off, the leak is in the shell or skimmer.

Pool leaks can occur in many places, but these are the most common culprits we find during leak detection in Lafayette-area pools:

• Skimmer — the joint where the skimmer meets the pool wall is a top leak location, especially in older gunite pools. Look for cracks or gaps in the skimmer throat.
• Return fittings — the eyeball fittings where water returns to the pool can develop leaks around the gasket or where the pipe connects.
• Main drain — underground main drain lines can crack from ground shifting or tree roots.
• Light niche — the conduit behind your pool light is a common leak point. Look for water trickling behind the light fixture.
• Underground plumbing — pipes can crack from ground movement, root intrusion, or age. This requires professional pressure testing to locate.
• Pool shell cracks — structural cracks in gunite/plaster pools can leak. Even hairline cracks can lose significant water over time.

If the bucket test confirms a leak, don't wait — leaks only get worse and more expensive over time. Here's when to call us:

• You're losing more than 1 inch per day — this is a significant leak that needs immediate attention.
• You see wet spots, soft ground, or erosion near the pool — underground pipe leak likely.
• Your water bill has spiked unexpectedly — the autofill may be compensating for a hidden leak.
• You notice air bubbles in the return jets — this indicates a suction-side leak pulling air into the system.
• Cracks in the pool deck or shifting coping stones — structural movement can crack both the shell and plumbing.

The #1 reason salt cells stop producing chlorine is simply that the salt level has dropped too low. Most systems need 2,700-3,400 ppm of salt to operate. Salt gets diluted by rain, splash-out, backwashing, and water replacement.

• Check your salt level with a digital salt meter (not just the control panel reading, which can drift over time).
• After heavy rain or a partial drain/refill, salt levels drop significantly — always retest after adding fresh water.
• Add pool-grade salt (not table salt or rock salt) in the deep end with the pump running. Allow 24 hours to dissolve and circulate before retesting.
• Most systems display a 'low salt' warning, but some older units just quietly reduce output without alerting you.

Over time, calcium carbonate deposits build up on the titanium plates inside your salt cell. This white, chalky buildup insulates the plates and prevents them from generating chlorine — even when salt levels are correct.

• Inspect the cell every 3 months — remove it and look through the end. If you see white scale on the plates, it needs cleaning.
• Soak in a 4:1 water-to-muriatic-acid solution for 5-10 minutes. You'll see it fizz as the calcium dissolves.
• Never scrape or use metal tools on the plates — this damages the precious-metal coating and shortens cell life.
• High calcium hardness in your pool water (above 400 ppm) accelerates buildup. Keep calcium between 200-400 ppm.
• Self-cleaning cells (reverse polarity) still need manual cleaning 1-2 times per year in Louisiana's hard water.

Salt systems require adequate water flow to operate. If the flow sensor doesn't detect enough water moving through the cell, it shuts down chlorine production as a safety measure.

• 'No Flow' or 'Check Flow' error — clean your filter, empty skimmer baskets, and check for air leaks. Low flow is usually a filtration issue, not a sensor issue.
• Dirty or clogged flow sensor — remove and clean the sensor with a soft cloth. Debris or calcium can coat it.
• Pump running at too low a speed — if you have a variable speed pump, make sure it runs at high enough RPM during salt cell operation (usually 2,000+ RPM).
• 'Check Cell' light — this usually means the cell is reaching end of life or has heavy calcium buildup. Inspect and clean first; if the error persists, the cell may need replacement.

Salt cells don't last forever. The titanium plates gradually wear down with use, and eventually the cell can no longer produce adequate chlorine regardless of salt level or cleanliness.

• Average lifespan: 3-7 years depending on usage, water chemistry, and maintenance.
• Signs of a dying cell: chlorine output drops even after cleaning, 'inspect cell' warnings become frequent, visible plate erosion or flaking.
• Running the cell at 100% output constantly shortens its life — ideally keep it at 40-60% by maintaining proper salt levels and chemistry.
• Replacement cells cost $400-$800 depending on the brand and pool size rating. We carry cells for Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy systems.
• Consider upgrading to a larger cell than your pool requires — it runs at lower output percentages and lasts significantly longer.

This is the #1 hidden cause of recurring algae in Lafayette pools. Cyanuric acid (CYA) protects chlorine from UV breakdown, but when it gets too high, it locks up your chlorine and makes it ineffective against algae — even if your test shows 'normal' chlorine levels.

• Ideal CYA range: 30-50 ppm. Above 80 ppm, chlorine becomes significantly less effective.
• CYA accumulates over time from stabilized chlorine (tablets/pucks). It doesn't evaporate or break down — the only way to lower it is to drain and replace water.
• If your CYA is above 80 ppm, you need a partial drain (25-50%) and refill with fresh water. No amount of shocking will overcome high CYA.
• After lowering CYA, consider switching to liquid chlorine (unstabilized) for daily sanitation and only using tablets sparingly.

Algae thrives in areas where water doesn't move. If your return jets aren't positioned correctly, or your pump doesn't run long enough, certain areas of your pool become algae breeding grounds.

• Point return jets downward at a 45° angle to create circular flow — water should move in one direction around the pool.
• Behind ladders, in corners, and on steps are common dead spots. Brush these areas weekly even if they look clean.
• Run your pump at least 8-12 hours per day in summer. In Louisiana's heat, 10-12 hours is ideal.
• If algae always returns in the same spot, that's a circulation dead zone. Adjust your jets or add a booster pump.

Phosphates are algae food. They enter your pool from fertilizer runoff, decaying leaves, certain pool chemicals, and even tap water. High phosphate levels give algae a constant food source, making it grow back faster after treatment.

• Test phosphate levels — anything above 300 ppb provides enough food for algae to thrive.
• Use a phosphate remover (lanthanum-based) to bring levels below 100 ppb.
• Keep landscaping fertilizer away from the pool area — runoff after rain is a major phosphate source.
• Skim leaves and debris promptly — decaying organic matter releases phosphates as it breaks down.
• Some municipal water supplies contain phosphates as a pipe corrosion inhibitor. Test your fill water.

A filter that's too small, too dirty, or worn out can't remove algae spores fast enough to prevent regrowth. Even after shocking, dead algae and live spores need to be physically removed from the water.

• Cartridge filters should be deep-cleaned (soaked) every 3 months and replaced annually in Louisiana's climate.
• Sand filters lose effectiveness after 5-7 years — the sand grains become smooth and can't trap fine particles. Replace the sand or upgrade to glass media.
• DE filters provide the finest filtration but need regular recharging after backwashing.
• If your filter is undersized for your pool volume, it simply can't process water fast enough to keep up with algae growth.
• After killing algae, run your filter 24/7 for 3-5 days and backwash/clean repeatedly until the water is crystal clear.

A common mistake is under-shocking. If you don't kill 100% of the algae, the survivors multiply back to full bloom within days. A light shock just makes algae angry — it doesn't eliminate it.

• For recurring algae, shock to at least 30 ppm free chlorine (SLAM method) and maintain that level until the water passes all three tests: clear water, zero combined chlorine, and the overnight chlorine loss test.
• Don't stop shocking when the water looks clear — algae can be invisible at low concentrations. Keep testing.
• Brush thoroughly before and during the shock process. Algae embeds in plaster pores and behind fixtures where chlorine can't reach without mechanical disruption.
• Vacuum dead algae to waste (not through the filter) to remove it from the pool entirely.
• After clearing, maintain chlorine at 3-5 ppm for 2 weeks to prevent any survivors from re-establishing.